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Improved E-Type Cooling

I had my old original Lucas cooling fans rebuilt a couple of years ago by a place on the East coast. They spun really fast at first but after a year they just died. To make things worse I was 300 miles from home!  I didn’t want to change to the modern fans, I wanted to keep that original look.

Never fear! Amazon is here! You can get an accessory fan that you fit in front of your radiator for about $50.




Etype cooling fan

Mounted in front of the radiator.


My series 2 will not overheat unless you’re sitting in traffic. I decided to add the extra fan to the front grill in order to get home through the Chicago traffic.

There is an extra unused wire in the original wiring harness that E-types have from the left side of the bonnet to the center console. I used this wire to run power for the fan upfront. I added a Lucas 6RA relay (also found on Amazon) so I wouldn’t overheat any electrical switches.


Etype cooling

Relay added to the circuit.

I also decided to get rid of my high, dim, off light switch for the dash lights. Whoever uses that anyway, I never have.  I reworked it so it now controls the fans. In the middle position I have the normal two fans running, top position all 3 fans are running and in the lower position all fans are off. Yes, I do have problems in the spring and fall when the fans cool too much so now I can shut them off completely.  I could have left this alone and just added a switch somewhere to turn the fan on but I really wanted a switch to turn off my fans and control the others better.

Jaguar Etype Cooling

Switch now changed to run the fans.


It’s been working great and now I have more control over my cooling system.  If I’m stuck in traffic, flip the switch and I add an extra cooling fan. If it’s cold out I shut them off. Pretty Nifty!

I bet this would work well in a lot of other models that have enough space in front of the radiator to add an extra fan. Not just Jags too!

Below is a wiring diagram I made showing the hookup.


Jaguar Etype cooling fan

The fan mounts in front of the radiator on the original screen. The fan comes with plastic mounts for this. I wonder how long they will last, might be better to use some stainless steel nuts, washers and bolts.

Drill a hold thru the side panel so you can run a wire into the area behind the drivers side headlight. Be sure to add a grommet when putting the wire thru.

Remove the panel behind the driver side headlight. On my car only a large Phillips head screwdriver is needed after you get the gas strut off. I’m not sure how the springs on older models fit in there.

There is a spare wire in the bonnet wiring harness that is not used. You need to find the loose wire inside the dash, behind your gauges. It comes out of the loom on the left side. It’s been a few weeks since I did this so I forget how I found the proper wire in the removable bonnet plug. I think I took an ohm meter  hooked it to the spare wire behind the gauges and then take a longer section of wire, long enough to reach out to the bonnet connector and hooked it up to the other end of ohm meter. Take the end wire by the bonnet connector and touch it to the different wire connections on the bonnet connector. There are 10 or so wires in that connector and you need to find the spare one that is not used. Once your ohm meter goes up you have found the wire you are looking for.  When you have everything else done, you can complete this connection. One end of the fan wire you connect to a ground point the other goes to the bonnet connector.  Go ahead and connect them, BUT! This connection will make the fan spin clockwise and counterclockwise depending on which way you wire it.  More on that later.

You could stop here and just put in an on/off switch that could handle 15 amps and it to a power source, but if you want it controlled off the main dash switches, keep reading.

Hook up that original spare harness wire to the C1 terminal on the 6RA relay. You need to run a power wire from the main fuse panel to the relay at the C2 terminal. Add a 15 amp fuse in there as the main fuse panel is usually double that amperage or more. The C2 terminal needs to be jumpered to W1 so both those terminals are “hot”. The W2 terminal needs to be hooked up to the rocker switch at the empty terminal on the bottom left.  The “W” on the relay is the coil that works the relay. (one side is hot, one side is ground) The “C” is the power. When the switch is moved, the W2 terminal gets ground from the otter switch causing the coil to charge and make the connection putting the C1 & C2 terminals together sending power out out the fans.

The high,low,dim switch wires can be removed from the switch. The red wire needs to connect to the red/white and red/blu wire. You can cut the ends off and wire nut them together of find the push on terminals at the hardware store and connect them. Wrap with black tape so nothing can short out. The red/brown wire will not be used. This will keep all your dash lights lit up on high when the lights are on.

Pull out the switch, There is metal connection between two terminals on one end. I used a Dremel tool to cut thru this metal strip so both these terminals were not connected.  Snap the rocker switch back into the counsel.

You need to run two wires up front on the passenger side to the connection for the radiator otter switch. I was able to run mine thru a grommet for the air conditioning hoses. You may need to drill a hole and make an opening. These wires will be used to break the connection between the fan relay and the otter switch enabling you to turn off the main fans. Disconnect the black wire to the otter switch and install the new wire you just ran. One new wire to one black wire the other black to the other new wire. Slip on terminal connectors work great.

Back inside the car take those two wires and connect them to the switch. One on the top right, the other bottom right. The top right one will also need a jumper to the left terminal. With this connection you can turn the main fans off completely if you want. Add a wire to the bottom left which will then be connected to the 6RA relay at W1.

When you are done and ready, ground that wire at W2, be sure you have power at C2. This will put power to the spare fan. Which way is it spinning? The air needs to blow towards the engine not out the front. If its blowing out the front, switch those two wires around at the bonnet connector. It should now be blowing the right way.

Now you have your old high/low/dim switch controlling your cooling system.  You have the choice between: all three fans will be on, only the original main fans on and all fans off. I like to keep mine off in the spring and fall as I always seem to have problems with the engine heating up enough in cold weather.

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